Thailand: Bangkok

Well we finally arrived into Thailand starting in Bangkok. As usual, I find a busy city quite overwhelming and we had to go door to door looking for a room as Rambuttri was full at 10pm in the evening.

We settled on the first place we could find, which was a total dump, but next morning we were able to muscle our way into Rambuttri Village Inn near Kao San Rd.

This place was heaven. Very clean, super nice pool on the roof, and very convenient location to lots of shopping, great food for $1 a plate just outside our door, and lots of other traveler focused services.

Here is Rocky lounging in the pool.

Over our three days in Bangkok we were asked at least 20 times by the same 4 people if we needed a tailor, perhaps a suit made?

For Bangkok photos click here. (anyone can view, no need for Facebook acct)

Kao San Rd was crazier that I expected!!! It has a real riff raff Camden feel to it, with lots of loud bars, loud techno blaring from pirated music vendors, lots of scary looking street food, mountains of noodles, and endless stuff to buy.

We are still working on how to correctly upload videos to YouTube but will have a great one of Kao San Rd soon.

We loved our little Soi (sidestreet) that we stayed on. It was so much more laid back and pretty than Kao San. There are wheeled fruit, drink and noodle carts going by at all times, lots of people on scooters trying to get by, and of course every ten feet is a tuk tuk driver trying to get you into his death trap little vehicle.

There was a monastery/temple nearby and once of the days we could hear this repetitive chanting so we decided to check it out.

It was some kind of service on a Wednesday afternoon. We went inside and didn't see any other non-thais so we kneeled at the back of the temple and tried to blend in. I reminded Rocky not to point his feet toward the Buddha, as feet are the most dirty part.

Some highlights from Bangkok include the following:

Palace Visit

The Royal Family's main palace in Bangkok is open for tourists and there are some beautiful temples and sculptures of other temples on the grounds. We took the chance to take lots of photos there.

Click here to see more temple photos.

There were lots of Thai people who were actually there to worship. They dress very "respectfully" and quite formal all in black. We were in awe of their ability not to pass out from the heat.

While at the temple, Rocky and I both got interviewed by Thai students for their English class. It didn't seem like they understood much of our responses and they were so nervous.

Boat Ride

One of the means of transportation in Bangkok is to take a boat down the Chao Phraya river. We hopped on that and really enjoyed the fast trip down the river.

The skipper blew a whistle many times when approaching a stop, and then he'd leap onto the dock while the boat was still traveling quite fast. People scurried off and scurried on. There was also a designated space on the boat for monks to stand.

We got off and transfered to the Skytrain, which is very modern and clean. We took our friend Andrew's advice and went to a restaurant called Face Bar.

Face Bar - http://www.facebars.com/

We had a most delicious and very out of our budget meal here (main dishes cost similar to what they would in Vancouver). They had both an Indian restaurant and a Thai restaurant in different parts of the restaurant, we chose Indian for a change of pace.

It was the best Indian we've had and also had an incredible atmosphere. It's kind of what I would imagine a Tibetan mountain lodge to be like--dark wood, candlelit, high ceilings and lots of different levels and rooms. There were beautiful little details like orchids floating in water and very, very old asian antiques. We were impressed!

World's Largest Reclining Buddha

Yes, we saw it! How random you might be thinking...The significance of the reclining buddha is that it was the position he was in just before reaching Nirvana... I guess I reach Nirvana every night!

After looking at the buddha we walked along a long corridor where people dropped a small coin into each of the roughly 50 little metal jars lining the corridor. The tinkling sound like rain on a tin roof filled the temple.

Siam Center

For the most part Bangkok was pretty rough around the edges, but the more expensive hotel and shopping area had two very modern malls. We were looking for an extension chord and a laptop lock, so ventured there to peruse.

This was a very different Thailand, one very similar to what we might see when going to the mall. Mostly young teens shopping, but tourists here and there. We had dinner at a so-so Japanese restaurant, but the Green Tea Ice Cream Shakes were to die for!

We found our extension chord and laptop lock and then sat in massage chairs for about 15 minutes. Hey, tired travelers need some R and R...

An Oliphaunt!

One of the highlights for me was seeing an elephant on the street we were staying on. It was a baby elephant, but already well trained by his very young master who looked about 15 years old.

I bought some sugar cane from him to feed the elephant with. The long trunk was already inside the bag before I had time to get a piece out.

I was laughing a lot and it was also cool to see other people's reactions who had clearly never seen an elephant before. They seem like really sweet animals and we are really looking forward to an elephant ride when we go to Pai.

Check out the pics we've put up as they tell more of the story of Bangkok. Videos will be coming soon.

Hong Kong

We arrived in Hong Kong (actually Kowloon) with a fairly easy bus ride from the airport. Got to our corner and were faced with signage overload and a fear ran through me that we had been scammed and our hostel didn’t exist.

The Rocky noticed a small sign beside a door with Dragon Hostel on it. Phew!

Click here to see photos of Hong Kong. (anyone can view these)

First morning there

Rocky and I walked down Nathan Rd. to Temple Street where we visited a gorgeous old temple. There were people praying there, which involved lighting incense and moving it in a rapid praying fashion.



This guy was jamming on a cowbell in the corner while his buddy chanted along. Sorry the video is sideways! I'm just learning that I can't do that!


We made it down to the harbour where we caught the Star Ferry over to Hong Kong proper. The waters edge is lined thick with some of the tallest buildings we’ve ever seen but with the mountain behind it reminded us of Vancouver.

There was lots of money on this side. Lots of suits going for lunch at Prêt a Manger in one of the ritziest malls we’ve ever been in.

We didn’t do much on this side because it was raining and we were really cold. Packing for Thailand had not included a warm jacket.

We went for foot massages and called it a day.

Had dinner later in the night market at a sit down place on the street. Very tasty chicken with cashew nuts and noodles!

To our surprise, prices in Hong Kong are lower than in Vancouver for food, clothing, electronics, transportation, and probably more.

Things here run very efficiently. We haven’t waited longer than 2 minutes for a bus, train or boat. The people are very impatient as I fish through my coin purse at the till.

Our waitress brought the bill and stood there over me while I found the money. She had cleverly anticipated that I would be paying with a $100 HK note, and promptly whipped out the correct change. Even though the restaurant is empty, there is no time to waste!

At another restaurant I dropped my chopsticks and didn’t think anyone had noticed. About a minute later I had a new pair of chopsticks in my hand.

Everywhere the people are operating at maximum velocity. As my dad would say, the productivity of the people here--at least that we’ve seen--is very high! They make North America look like a joke.

You gotta give it to the Chinese for not being self conscious either. Belching, farting and hocking loogies are totally acceptable wherever you are!

Second morning
Happy Birthday Rocky!

We had a hankering to see Macao, China’s new acquisition from the Portuguese. Old colonial architecture, winding streets, delicious food and of course... Casinos!

This is the Vegas of China.

The official languages are Cantonese and Portuguese. Bem vindo!

Macanese (half Portuguese, half Chinese) are less than five percent but there is Portuguese signage everywhere.

Rocky had a brilliant idea to catch a free shuttle from the ferry terminal to the Wynn Casino. This got us within walking distance of the town and conveniently we arrived just in time for the show in the lobby. [video]

We went to lunch in the café and were quietly placed in the rear of the restaurant with the other whities. Only Chinese people in the front of the restaurant.

We had an out of this world delicious Macanese dish called African chicken and then I sang happy birthday to Rocky.

We got to see high society Chinese having a blast at the Casino. One table was very loud, a huge crowd of people around it, and as each card was dealt everyone yelled and slammed a hand on the table. It looked like a lot of fun.

Yelapa

Rocky and I just got back from a wonderful little overnight trip to Yelapa, a town accessible only by boat just outside of Puerto Vallarta. We took a roughly half-hour bus ride (for 50 cents) South to Boca de Tomatlan where we caught a boat to Yelapa for roughly $6. 

The boat ride was about 20 minutes. It was really fun, an open air boat with super horsepower motors. The highlight of the boat ride was that we saw a whale!!

It was jumping so much for us and the boat driver got really close and slowed down for about 5-10 minutes. Rocky took a great video of it which I will post soon!

Along the way we passed a few other small beach towns nestled among craggy cliffs, and then finally arrived to Yelapa. 

Yelapa is a tiny town with probably less than 1,000 people. It seems even smaller because the houses are all packed together and so many people live in one house. There are no cars, no roads, just a foot path through the town with burro's (donkey's) being the way to transport heavy goods such as water, large propane tanks, food, etc.

Yelapa feels like another world. Rocky marveled at how short a trip from Vancouver could be to get to such a different, secluded little world. 5 hour plane ride, 20 min cab from airport, 40 minute boat ride from downtown PV... and voila! Maybe even a weekend getaway?

Our boat dropped us off right in front of Casas de Isabel where we stayed overnight. Our accommodation was the Gatehouse, a little tree fort right above a small rocky beach with crashing waves. The Gatehouse has a double bed hanging on a platform that hangs from the bamboo frame (I think this is so Scorpions do not crawl into bed with you). It also has a hammock, a table and chairs, a small kitchenette with a propane camp stove, and a rustic seldom hot water shower. Very rustic indeed, but we enjoyed it a lot.

Once we got settled by Isabel's lovely, very off-the-grid assistant we headed through the little pueblo over to the beach. In Yelapa, there isn't a helluvalot to do but that is part of the beauty of it. When at the beach you can go Para-sailing ("Want to fly or get high?" they ask), go swimming, enjoy the food at the very similar row of restaurants on the beach. 

You can also take a burro ride or walk to the waterfalls. There were quite a few people Para-gliding from the mountain above as well. The wind got high on day 2 and someone apparently crashed in the woods but made it out unharmed.

Rocky and I relaxed on the beach and ordered up quesadillas con pollo, Negra Modelo and limonadas. 

Clouds rolled in, so we walked back to our little tree fort and I lay in the hammock and read my book. Rocky experimented with our new camera for the trip. It's a hard life!

Here is a video of me walking thru the town of Yelapa from the beach to our little place.

A few hours later we went into town and had dinner at Pollo Bollo, a place that Isabel had recommended. We saw her and her friends eating there, so that really was a good sign. Again, it was pretty standard fair. Chicken, ribs and seafood cooked in garlic. Standard Mexican food is really similar--meat that comes with a portion of beans, rice, warmed tortilla and a little salad. Often a fresh tomato and cilantro salsa with tortilla chips to start.

This was a pretty hoppin' spot with a large table of hippy folk, snowbird gringo's and of course some minor dog fights. The flan was pretty tasty too but not quite as creamy as I usually enjoy.

After dinner we took a stroll through town. It seemed really sleepy and perhaps slightly boring at night, but I spoke too soon--Rocky had a vision.

He was hoping to walk to the beach to find a beach fire, but we missed the steps down to the beach and continued on behind the beach a ways into the marshy lands. After walking about 10 minutes we heard funky beats and young people laughing. 

We stumbled upon Oasis, a really nice little resort that had a beautifully lit outdoor bar. Walked in and there was a young guy and girl from Ontario serving drinks. DJ Grapenuts from Bellingham, WA was on the decks (well laptop actually) and he was playing some great dub and downtempo. We were stoked to find this hidden gem!

After sipping on peppermint tea, somebody lit a fire. Rocky got his campfire after all. We joined a group of 6 dudes who were from Squamish, Victoria, Ontario and a few very americanized Mexicans. Small world!

Being around the campfire reminded us of good ol' Oliver Crescent, our home before our current one in Kits. Fires are so comforting, and it was actually pretty chilly out. We learned that the folks from Bellingham were actually a group of friends who had decided to start a traveling circus and tour around in their diesel-turned-veggie-oil-powered bus. How groovy!

After the bar closed at around midnight, we followed the group to the Yacht Club, Yelapa's restaurant disco. When we arrived they were playing some sassy salsa beats, but the mix soon turned to the epic 80's rock medley that seemed to get all the 50 somethings dancing. A three dog play fight ensued on the dance floor. Gotta love those Mexican dogs!

We said bye to our gringo friends and got the hell outta there.

Next morning went for french toast and fruit at an internet cafe where two other women were sitting with their mac laptops. You can run but you can't hide!

A little boy drove his toy motorbike over our table and got a piggy back ride from another gringo guy. Lots of laughter and lots of really loud, obnoxious music very early in the morning in Mexico!

For the rest of the day I lounged on the beach while Rocky got an excruciating accu-pressure treatment near our casa. Then we caught the 4pm boat from the beach and headed back to town.

Yelapa is definitely one of those places you should spend a night in at some point in your life. It really forces you to s-l-o-w  d-o-w-n.

San Miguel de Allende

We just spent 4 nights in San Miguel de Allende, a town in the province of Guanajuato (Wannawhatoe), where Rocky's parent's long time friend, Sona, and her mother, Maman, live.

We first flew into Puerto Vallarta and then hopped on the very comfortable and highly recommended ETN bus to Guadalajara (a 5-hour ride). From there we had to take another 5.5 hour bus to San Miguel. After 11 hours on a bus you definitely feel a bit queezy, but the saving grace was how comfortable the bus was.

We basically had beds to lie on for our 11-hour ride. Our buses at home have two seats on either side, but these seats were so wide that they could only fit two and one. There was also so much space between the seats ahead and behind that we could almost fully recline, and there was a full leg rest. Can you tell that Rocky and I were stoked about such a comfortable ride?

I will say that it's still really hard to pee on a bouncing bus though!

We finally made it to Sona's house which is, to say the least, palatial. Persian rugs and Sona's art adorn the main floor. There is an incredible view from the patio onto the town of San Miguel. The downstairs, accessible by a glass staircase, is kind of like the ultimate performance or party space. It's also got a movie theatre, a lap pool and a bar.



For our first day in San Miguel we went to the Tuesday market on top of the hill above the town. It mostly basurra (garbage as Sona liked to call it) but there were lots of bright colors, yummy smells and of course, loud distorted music playing.

Click here for more photos of our San Miguel visit.

Our Honeymoon Itinerary

We left Vancouver on January 5th for Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. We've got another week in Mexico and then we're back in Vancouver on Jan. 21st and 22nd.

On Jan 23rd, we will leave for Hong Kong for three nights and then Thailand on Jan 27th. Right now our plan is to spend a few days in Bangkok until we get tired of the city, and then we'll see what else is out there.

Our only set dates are Feb 13th - Feb 17th on Koh Samui at the Jungle Club (thanks Janet!) and then a week on Koh Phangan for the Full Moon Party which, I believe, is Feb 22nd that month.

We've got a tourist visa for Vietnam from Feb 25th until about April 7th.

After that we want to check out the surrounding countries of Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, Indonesia and maybe Singapore (if only for the Singapore Airlines experience!) but we don't have any set dates there.

We've received lots of great tips so far and if you do think of something that we should check out, please let us know!