Yelapa

Rocky and I just got back from a wonderful little overnight trip to Yelapa, a town accessible only by boat just outside of Puerto Vallarta. We took a roughly half-hour bus ride (for 50 cents) South to Boca de Tomatlan where we caught a boat to Yelapa for roughly $6. 

The boat ride was about 20 minutes. It was really fun, an open air boat with super horsepower motors. The highlight of the boat ride was that we saw a whale!!

It was jumping so much for us and the boat driver got really close and slowed down for about 5-10 minutes. Rocky took a great video of it which I will post soon!

Along the way we passed a few other small beach towns nestled among craggy cliffs, and then finally arrived to Yelapa. 

Yelapa is a tiny town with probably less than 1,000 people. It seems even smaller because the houses are all packed together and so many people live in one house. There are no cars, no roads, just a foot path through the town with burro's (donkey's) being the way to transport heavy goods such as water, large propane tanks, food, etc.

Yelapa feels like another world. Rocky marveled at how short a trip from Vancouver could be to get to such a different, secluded little world. 5 hour plane ride, 20 min cab from airport, 40 minute boat ride from downtown PV... and voila! Maybe even a weekend getaway?

Our boat dropped us off right in front of Casas de Isabel where we stayed overnight. Our accommodation was the Gatehouse, a little tree fort right above a small rocky beach with crashing waves. The Gatehouse has a double bed hanging on a platform that hangs from the bamboo frame (I think this is so Scorpions do not crawl into bed with you). It also has a hammock, a table and chairs, a small kitchenette with a propane camp stove, and a rustic seldom hot water shower. Very rustic indeed, but we enjoyed it a lot.

Once we got settled by Isabel's lovely, very off-the-grid assistant we headed through the little pueblo over to the beach. In Yelapa, there isn't a helluvalot to do but that is part of the beauty of it. When at the beach you can go Para-sailing ("Want to fly or get high?" they ask), go swimming, enjoy the food at the very similar row of restaurants on the beach. 

You can also take a burro ride or walk to the waterfalls. There were quite a few people Para-gliding from the mountain above as well. The wind got high on day 2 and someone apparently crashed in the woods but made it out unharmed.

Rocky and I relaxed on the beach and ordered up quesadillas con pollo, Negra Modelo and limonadas. 

Clouds rolled in, so we walked back to our little tree fort and I lay in the hammock and read my book. Rocky experimented with our new camera for the trip. It's a hard life!

Here is a video of me walking thru the town of Yelapa from the beach to our little place.

A few hours later we went into town and had dinner at Pollo Bollo, a place that Isabel had recommended. We saw her and her friends eating there, so that really was a good sign. Again, it was pretty standard fair. Chicken, ribs and seafood cooked in garlic. Standard Mexican food is really similar--meat that comes with a portion of beans, rice, warmed tortilla and a little salad. Often a fresh tomato and cilantro salsa with tortilla chips to start.

This was a pretty hoppin' spot with a large table of hippy folk, snowbird gringo's and of course some minor dog fights. The flan was pretty tasty too but not quite as creamy as I usually enjoy.

After dinner we took a stroll through town. It seemed really sleepy and perhaps slightly boring at night, but I spoke too soon--Rocky had a vision.

He was hoping to walk to the beach to find a beach fire, but we missed the steps down to the beach and continued on behind the beach a ways into the marshy lands. After walking about 10 minutes we heard funky beats and young people laughing. 

We stumbled upon Oasis, a really nice little resort that had a beautifully lit outdoor bar. Walked in and there was a young guy and girl from Ontario serving drinks. DJ Grapenuts from Bellingham, WA was on the decks (well laptop actually) and he was playing some great dub and downtempo. We were stoked to find this hidden gem!

After sipping on peppermint tea, somebody lit a fire. Rocky got his campfire after all. We joined a group of 6 dudes who were from Squamish, Victoria, Ontario and a few very americanized Mexicans. Small world!

Being around the campfire reminded us of good ol' Oliver Crescent, our home before our current one in Kits. Fires are so comforting, and it was actually pretty chilly out. We learned that the folks from Bellingham were actually a group of friends who had decided to start a traveling circus and tour around in their diesel-turned-veggie-oil-powered bus. How groovy!

After the bar closed at around midnight, we followed the group to the Yacht Club, Yelapa's restaurant disco. When we arrived they were playing some sassy salsa beats, but the mix soon turned to the epic 80's rock medley that seemed to get all the 50 somethings dancing. A three dog play fight ensued on the dance floor. Gotta love those Mexican dogs!

We said bye to our gringo friends and got the hell outta there.

Next morning went for french toast and fruit at an internet cafe where two other women were sitting with their mac laptops. You can run but you can't hide!

A little boy drove his toy motorbike over our table and got a piggy back ride from another gringo guy. Lots of laughter and lots of really loud, obnoxious music very early in the morning in Mexico!

For the rest of the day I lounged on the beach while Rocky got an excruciating accu-pressure treatment near our casa. Then we caught the 4pm boat from the beach and headed back to town.

Yelapa is definitely one of those places you should spend a night in at some point in your life. It really forces you to s-l-o-w  d-o-w-n.